The Magars

The general summarization of Magar, being Magar myself, is limited to my family only. I had slim to no chance of having any Magar friends outside my family. But when my brother got married to his long term girl friend, I had chance to see more Magars as my extended family and learn about my clan and culture further. She is from Gorkha and my family is also originally from Gorkha. Been there once in my life when I was in 7th grade, which is like dog's years ago.

My grandfather was an Indian Army, he left his hometown when he was teenager. When he retired he married and settled in Darjeeling. On the birth of a second child his wife died. He then came to Nepal, bought lands in Kathmandu behind Nirmal Niwas at Maharjgunj, married my grandmother, reproduced more children. His children reproduced more children, I am one of the product, and my grandfather never went back to his hometown and consequently we are all disconnected from our roots. That is how I know nothing about Magars. We all became modern day Kathmandunians forgetting our Magar roots everyday.
So back to when my brother married, I learnt about my left behind Gorkha family from my sister-in-law's relatives. Apparantly both our families shared common Padhero (Well or Tap).

Book Cover of "Nepal" by Toni Hagen.

I am reading Toni Hagen's book "Nepal" , probably written in 1960s. I love reading books written by Foreign writers who has lived in Nepal, with locals and texts are from the first hand experince. Like Toni Hagen, who came to Nepal in early 1950s when gates of Nepal were not yet opened to outsiders and one could come into Nepal only with a special invitations by Shah or Rana Maharajas. He first visited Nepal with a first Swiss development assistance mission. In 1952 he was employed by the Government of Nepal and also worked for the United Nations.
Below is excerpt from his book.



The MAGAR

The Magars are the westermost of the Tibeto-Nepali groups of the midlands and are the largest of these ethnic. Neighbours of the Gurungs, the Magars live on the westen and southern flanks of the Dhulagiri massif. Scattered colonies are found as far afield as eastern, Nepal, however and down in the Tarai of eastern Nepal and there is a large compact settlement area situated in the wide sweep of the Karnali river, between Dhundras and Chhapre. The Magars have not developed a type of house peculiar to themseles, but adopted their neighbours' type of dwelling. At the western end of the Dhualgiri massif and on the upper course of the Uttar Ganga river they live in massive houses with flat roofs, whose form looks similar to the houses in neighbouring Tibetan settlements to the north. On the southern flank of the Dhaulagiri massif, on the other hand, they build their houses, as do the Gurungs, of drystone walls roofed with slate.
Like the Gurungs, the Magars have gained fame as gallant soldiers in British Service. Besides this, however, back home they are known to possess considereable skill as craftsmen in carpentary, masonry, stonecutting etc. They are the bridge-builders among the Nepalis, and the little primitive mining that goes on in Central Nepal is largely in thier hands. From the more southernly regions, that is to say on the lower courses of the Bheri and the Karnali rivers, a great number of Magars annually migrate to the Terai and there manufacture bamboo panniers, baskets, and mats for sale in the Bazaars along the borders. In their for sale in the Bazaars along the borders. In their most norhterly settlement, on the other hands, the important trading center of tarakot on the Barbung river. they have largely adapted their way of life, their clothes, and their religion to that of the Tibetans, like the latter they also live by the salt trade. Here are found numbers lamaseries with Magar lamas; in the lower zones, however, Hinduism of the Tantrist tendency prevails.

Okay, they were the Magars of 1960, probably that is what my grandfather would  do had he not migrated to India to become an Indian Army. I was two when he passed away, I remember him from my parents and cousins only, he certainly was great farmer and grew ample food to feed his family. Imagine Maharjgunj area immediately behind Nirmal Niwas, as vast cultivable field that he owned, 40 years ago, exactly like present day Khokana.

Anyway, in nutshell, we are not the Magars from Toni Hagen's book anymore, we do not live in houses like our Neighbour Gurungs, nor we are skilled craftsmen in carpentary, masonary or stonecutting, although I would love it if I encounter Magars from those times and their offsprings keeping the legacy on and yet prospering from that.

Jhorley!!

P.S: The only Magar word I know, and I am not proud about it.

Gujeshwari Mandir

Gujeshwari temple is not my every day or even an every month temple, but once a year, in the Holy Month of Magh, i.e when Swasthani Brata starts. The route remaining same, starting at Gauri Ghat, Kirtaeshwar Temple, Gujeshwari, Pashupatinath and if energy allows finishing the chain of pilgrimage at Chabahil Ganeshthan.

I don't like the idea of how Gujeshwari mandir perched above hill is hidden behind the wall or even houses. It is the most beautiful temple, one of the all-time masterpieces of Hindu Surrealism on top of that its one of 51 Shakti Pithas (holy place of a cosmic power), while non-Hindus are forbidden to enter, they could at least see the temple if the houses were not blocking them. Also, wrecked chortens that line up outside the temple is a complete eyesore.

It would be wonderful to see sketches when King Pratap Malla constructed this temple back in 17th century.

The primary amusement is that this temple doesn't have regular idol rather has a Kalasha (vessel) kept in a sunken pit and containing an odiferous liquid. As mentioned in Shree Swasthani Katha, when Sati Devi's father insults her husband, Lord Shiva, she threw herself onto a fire. Shiva retrieved her corpse, blinded by grief, walked across the world, scattering her parts of the body at 51 sacred places. Gujeshwari is the place where Sati Devi's vagina fell, and the consequence is kalasha worship.
  This cosmic power site is equally sacred to Buddhist, who worship Sati Devi as Vajrayogini, a Powerful Tantric Goddess and also believe that the site to be the seed from with the Swayambhu lotus grew.


Location: Chabahil
Getting There: Walk from Pashupatinath downhill Gorakhnath temple.
                         Alternatively walk along the lane of Gauri Ghat from Chabahil

Seto Bhairab

Seto Bhairab aka Swett Bhairab as termed in Sanskrit or White Bhairab, a literal translation is set against the Basantapur Palace wall but not very well visible behind the wooden screen. One could easily miss it unless the guide pointed him out. A snarling ten-foot-high gilded head of Seto Bhairab is the fierce manifestation terrifying and blood swilling aspect of Lord Shiva, one of the most revered deities of Nepal, sacred to Hindus and Buddhists alike. Bhairab is invoked in prayers to destroy enemies.

Basantapur Durbar square is a good place to hang out for all generations at any time of day. I go there once in a while with my mother almost like a pilgrimage, starting at the  Shiva Parbati temple which is actually at the end of Durbar Square or could also be beginning if you want to explore Durbar Square from the northern side. You enter the square and then opens out to another temple-clogged area. We then see Kaal Bhairab, The large stone deity wearing a garland of skulls, has six arms and stands on a demon. Ranged along the left (western side) are the Taleju Bell, the octagonal Vamsagopala, and a pair of ceremonial drums from the eighteenth century, and to its right is Seto Bhairab housed. The huge mask dates from 176, during the reign of Rana Bahadur Shah, the third Shah-dynasty king.

I had peeked through lattice windows to get a view of the Bhairab, seen his images over-pouring on Internet but it was only 2013 Indra Jatra that I saw His avataar. The golden crown of serpents, skulls and rock-sized jewels and the petrifying smile which was terrifying yet magnificent.  I can tell you it is one of the most dramatic sights I have ever seen. Bhairab's face was covered in flowers; at the start of the aila (liquor) was poured through the pipe attached to the horrific mouth and crowds of men fought hard to get a drink of the blessed brew. It is believed that men who drink the brew are blessed with son.

Although I missed the main chariot pulling event, I returned feeling blessed with the view Seto Bhairab which is rare or any other normal days.

Location: Kathmandu Durbar Square or Basantapur Durbar Square
Getting There: 10 minutes of walking distance from the New Road Gate.

Mahendra Gufa (Cave)

My sister is a Ghostess of the Cave

You know what I like about Mahendra Cave the most, especially in Summer, the chill you feel as you enter the cave due to continuously dripping water. :D

Driving across the K I Singh pul (bridge), at the top end of the Pokhara, heading north past the Gurkha Camp, turning right up to a paved road 600 m beyond the bridge and following it for about 3 km to the end. Literally, end, if you walk further you will hit nose against gigantic hills that surround the Pokhara Valley.

There were not many tourists on that day. We visited very early as a next stop and final stop from Bindyabashini temple. Bought a ticket, I don't remember the ticket fare, could be Rs 25. It was a springtime and greenery greeted as I entered the cave vicinity. Warm weather, bright sky, cool breeze and shade of tall trees. Heaven on earth. Trees really excite me but "Hariyo Ban Nepal ko Dhan" (‘Green forests are Nepal‘s wealth’), an age old adage in Nepal, alarms me concerning the loss of rich bio-diverse resources every day, all in the name of development. 

Anyway, there on the right end of the botanical garden was stone laid stairs that take you down to the cave. It is as if I am walking into the wide-opened mouth of some mammoth, the only missings are tusks and grinding teeth, if you know what I mean.   
This limestone and honeycomb kinda cave's corridors are dark with occasional punctuation of installed lights that sparkled the rocks and also tricked eyes. I easily tripped the entire time plus continuously dripping water overhead added merry to the falling. I don't think I walked all the 2 km inside the cave but managed to reach Shiva altar. The atmosphere was mysterious, away from hustle bustle. I sat on a big rock, turned on my mobile phone light and looked at rock formations carefully, one by one, wondering how must they have formed. After that, I took lots of photos of them and stone shrines.

Stone offerings.

I read, Mahendra cave used to be well-known for its limestone stalactites, but these have unfortunately been ransacked by vandals, and few surviving stalagmites are daubed with red sindur or vermilion powder and revered as Shiva Lingam because of the resemblances to phalluses. 

After spending good amount of time in there, I happily departed from  Pokhara the same afternoon.

And of course how can I forget, The name Mahendra Cave is named after our Late King Mahendra Bir Bikram Shah Dev and place is Batulechaur, at the northern end of the Pokhara city.

Location: Batule Chaur
Getting there: Bus from Prithivi Chowk

Kavre Palanchok Bhagwati

I have planned this trip for a while. Actually I had a bhakal (a commitment homage and offering to a Hindu Deity) for a very long time, and I am going there after almost 5 years, that is before the massive 2015 earthquake. Kavre was one of the most seriously hit district at that time. I saw photos of crumbled temple on newspapers and social media. More harrowing part was that the Sathi Ghar, the beautiful village of array of 60 mud houses, 1 km away from the temple, was completely annihilated during that time.

Finally, I have a date and time to go to Palanchowk Bhagwati. Called a car, collected few relatives and off I went.

It's 2 hours drive from where I live to the destination, about 55 km north-east of Kathmandu, Panchkhal municipality of Kavrepalanchok District. 8:30 AM by the time we reached and almost time for Nitya Puja. Nitya Puja is an everyday ritual offered by designated Priest at a designated time. We quickly queued for darshan (ritual) and did our prayer and made our offerings to a three feet tall stone idol of Goddess Bhagwati. My mom says the more you look at Her, the more you are spellbound by Her beauty, which is so true, I could not take my eyes off her. Let me try describing her: A polished black stone idol with 18 arms. Bedecked with silver ornaments. Drenched in vermillion. The Goddess Bhagwati holds Astra/Nastra (weaponry and symbols) Patra (vessel), Trishul (trident), Kulhadi (Axe), Damaru (two headed drum), Chakra (disc), Gadha (mace), Khunda (scimitar), Matsya (Fish), and Ghanta (bell) on her hands. More prodigious arms of Bhagwati extend and grab Mahisasur’s (Buffalo Demon King) toupee and tail. Slained Shumbha and Nishumbha, Mahisasur's henchmen lie by Her feet. Mounted on Her stride lion, one feet tramples Mahisasur, while the hand holding the trident stabs him.

Palanchok Bhagwati Goddess is believed to manifest herself in three different incarnations in parts of day. She is Goddess Bhagwati, the embodiment of Supreme Power, the Divine Mother of the Universe, and the Savior of mankind from evil and misery in the mornings. Goddess Saraswoti, the Goddess of Learning and Wisdom in the afternoon. And Goddess Kali, destroyer of evil forces at night. The priests at the temple perform Nitya Puja every morning at 9 and evenings are scheduled for Aarati, rites of offering oil wick lamps.

Revered as a pilgrimage site, the Bhagwati temple overflows with pilgrims on Saturdays and Tuesdays. On every Chandi Purnima or Baisakh Purnima (full moon day in May/June), a festival marks the temple site with people streaming in from the nearby villages, and towns mostly located‘ by the Arniko highway. Twice every year, during Dashain and on Buddha Jayanti (Lord Buddha’s birth anniversary), chariots bearing the images of Goddess Bhagwati and Kali are driven around the village of Palanchok Bhagwati.

The myth has it, King Manadeva I (464-505 A.D.) dreamt of Goddess Bhagwati wishing her idol from a village of Buchhakot (Kavre district) to be relocated at some place with a northerly bearing. The King with his queen set forth on this mission with Her idol to fulfilling Her wish. Her idol could not be hoisted at any force from Jagpankpur where they had camped the previous night. Stunned King called in Royal Priests for consultation. They advised it was Her wish to be enshrined here. The foundation stone of Palanchok Bhagwati temple was laid then and there. Every year, the residents of Buchhakot which sits atop a hill to the south of Palanchok (visible from the temple site) on the Sindhuli /Bardibas highway in Kavre district, visit Palanchok Bhagwati to pay their homage performing Kshama Puja (a ritual perfomed to seek forgiveness) on the full moon day of Baisakh (May/June)

A five minute’s walk from the Bhagwati temple is Kalika temple dedicated to Goddess Kali who is an elder sister of Palanchok Bhagwati, Sobha Bhagwati and Naxal Bhagwati in Kathmandu. The idol of Kali, resembling a stone pillar, is lodged in an inverted stance. Myth has it, a 65 year old priest of Palanchok temple, Vidyamananda Bajracharya, with the assistance of Newari Priests did it to forbid the Kali’s frequent devouring of humans who visited the Goddess after sun set. This site as well is under construction. And behind it I saw re-constructions going on of Saathi Ghar I mentioned earlier. I read that all the houses of the village will be restored to its former glory. It's a happy thing, isn't it.

Location:Panchkhal, Kavre Palanchok
Getting There: Bus from Ratna Park, Kathmandu

Kirateshwar Mahadev

I was born and brought up here, and I with millions of other Kathmandunians fit the Nepali says "Kuwa ko Bhyguta" or a Toad of a Pond if you literally translate. Never been outside of Kathmandu, very much soaked up in our own little world and confined to commute between home to office slash home to school slash home to college.

For the first time in how many years, I won't tell you, or you know my age, which I am not so happy about at the moment talking about where I am in life career wise and relationship status wise, pun not intended, this was my first visit to Kirateshwar. I had seen many photos of relatively huge red phallus (if I am allowed to say that) carved OM on it, centring rotunda type room, many women in red worshipping it with the regular ritual offerings, a Sadhu Maharaj on the side singing his bhajans or waiting for his turn to collect alms from visitors. But I had not visited the place before and also didn't know this god was Kirateshwar.

Once you are done worshipping at Gauri Ghat after you go to Kirateshwar before you go to Guheswari temple followed by Pashupatinath, the Dev of Devas (Lord of the Lords). Taking stairs uphill about 200 meters, you reach rather unusual Shiva Linga Palace, where God Shiva resides in the manifestation of Lord Kirateshwar. It is just one house that has Him and pilgrims go round and round offering there best of prayers, especially on the holy month of Magh. You have bhajan mandali, devotional song singers too.

Location: Near Guheswari Temple
Getting There: Walking distance of 10 minutes from Chahabil.

Budhanilkantha or famously Naranthan

Lord Vishnu

For every occasion, whether it's birthday, wedding anniversary, annaprasna, etc, I with family would go to this temple. It surprised me to see my appalled friends who had visited temple for  first time, for them worshiping humongous Lord Vishnu reclining on bed serpent was a rare view and for me it was a regular since birth. I mean, who wouldn't be if you see 5 meters tall black stone structure carved calmly reclining on the coils of the cosmic serpents called Shesah positioned in the middle of a recessed pool of water. But there is miniature replica of it in Balaju, specially carved for Shah Kings of Nepal. Legend has it Shah Kings of Nepal were and are still forbidden His view. Royals will be chased by serpents if they set foot at this temple.

I have heard and believed that when entrance stairs is climbed holding breath can make any wish come true so I always follow the procedure in the hopes of getting boons. I bow the first stair and holding breath run-climb stairs to reach atop vicinity. First thing first, there is a small niche for Saraswati, Goddess of Knowledge, pay homage there, then worship Ganesh housed on the right side of main temple. Then comes turn of Lord Vishnu himself. What I don't like about the main deity now is, we cannot touch his feet, instead, the temple committee has installed a pair of feet, similar to that of Balaji in South India, next to Lord's feet and devotees are now only allowed to perform puja on it. After Lord Vishnu turn right and worship Laxmi, Goddess of Wealth; then Lord Krishna, the naughtiest of all Hindu Gods;  then Shiva, our very own patron deity of Kathamndu, and you are back to Saraswati, where you started. By this time you have circumambulated Lord Vishnu.

My dad's cousin was a Sadhavi and she lived here and took care of temple with Guru Maharaj and other novice monks. I still remember the two storey mud house standing on the left side of vicinity. As soon as worshiping Lord there, I used to climb log ladder to meet Dijju (Phupu, but we fondly called her dijju) in hopes of getting favorite fruits and sweets that were offered to god by pilgrims. My favorite was haluwa swari, and she made the best haluwa of all. She was a gorgeous lady clad in saffron always wearing a big matted-hair-bun and a bright smile on face, and she would hug us all with much love.
I miss her when I visit the temple these days, it's been more than twenty years since she is gone. I love this temple very much because of the precious childhood memories I have here but with all the new developments, buildings, new faces,  my attachment to the temple is abating.

Location: Budhanilkantha At the foothill of Shiva Puri
Getting There: By Bus/Micro Vans along the Route #5

Gauri Ghat

Goddess Gauri

My first post as Ask Me About Nepal. I thought why not start with Gauri Ghat, as we have just passed Holy month of Magh. Magh is an auspicious month as mentioned in Swasthani. What is Swasthani? It's another story for another day.

Gauri Ghat, a ghat for Goddess Gauri on the bank of holy Bagmati river and is located on the northern side of the famous Pashupatinath temple, a patron deity of Kathmandu. Gauri is consort of Lord Shiva, here you can see head and shoulder cut of Gauri peeking out of rocks. Pilgrims fill water in hand cupped together from Bagmati river and pour over the Gauri, then worship her with vermilion power (abeer), rice (akshata), flower and fruits at and conclusion offer incense and oil-wick lamps. Pilgrims alternatively also flow oil wick burning on tapari (leaf saucer) on Bagmati river. There is also Lord Ganesh on the other side of bank, sitting alone, no body to propitiate Him as there is no way to wade through that polluted yet Holy water of Bagmati. In fact Bagmati is so polluted I could offer it to Gauri Mata (Mother) but couldn't sprinkle on myself as purification ritual. I quickly had to use hand sanitizer when I offered Bagmati water as part of ritual.
Huge Monkey God, Hanuman squats next to Gauri, what could be the relation? Hanuman is Lord Ram Devout. Anyway, Hanuman reminds of other locomotive hanumans that roam around temple terrifying devotees, snatching fruits from them. I mean monkeys. There are no mischievous monkeys in any other temples than found in Pashupatinath area. They are always on toes to terrorize devotees, especially women and children carrying bags. Hence, devotees are more cautious about monkeys than praying to the Goddess.

Oil Lamp and Incense offering at the bank of Bagmati

There are other gods and goddess niched on wall behind Hanuman. The bridge-walkway is either lined up by offering sellers or alms collector, that is general views (GVs) outside any Hindu temple in Kathmandu.

Location: On the way to Guheswari Temple,
Getting there: 10 minutes walk from Chabahil along Bagmati River.