Seto Bhairab

Seto Bhairab aka Swett Bhairab as termed in Sanskrit or White Bhairab, a literal translation is set against the Basantapur Palace wall but not very well visible behind the wooden screen. One could easily miss it unless the guide pointed him out. A snarling ten-foot-high gilded head of Seto Bhairab is the fierce manifestation terrifying and blood swilling aspect of Lord Shiva, one of the most revered deities of Nepal, sacred to Hindus and Buddhists alike. Bhairab is invoked in prayers to destroy enemies.

Basantapur Durbar square is a good place to hang out for all generations at any time of day. I go there once in a while with my mother almost like a pilgrimage, starting at the  Shiva Parbati temple which is actually at the end of Durbar Square or could also be beginning if you want to explore Durbar Square from the northern side. You enter the square and then opens out to another temple-clogged area. We then see Kaal Bhairab, The large stone deity wearing a garland of skulls, has six arms and stands on a demon. Ranged along the left (western side) are the Taleju Bell, the octagonal Vamsagopala, and a pair of ceremonial drums from the eighteenth century, and to its right is Seto Bhairab housed. The huge mask dates from 176, during the reign of Rana Bahadur Shah, the third Shah-dynasty king.

I had peeked through lattice windows to get a view of the Bhairab, seen his images over-pouring on Internet but it was only 2013 Indra Jatra that I saw His avataar. The golden crown of serpents, skulls and rock-sized jewels and the petrifying smile which was terrifying yet magnificent.  I can tell you it is one of the most dramatic sights I have ever seen. Bhairab's face was covered in flowers; at the start of the aila (liquor) was poured through the pipe attached to the horrific mouth and crowds of men fought hard to get a drink of the blessed brew. It is believed that men who drink the brew are blessed with son.

Although I missed the main chariot pulling event, I returned feeling blessed with the view Seto Bhairab which is rare or any other normal days.

Location: Kathmandu Durbar Square or Basantapur Durbar Square
Getting There: 10 minutes of walking distance from the New Road Gate.